One Of These Tunas Is Not Like The Others

Which of these tuna brands sends chef Glenys Morgan fishin’ in the back of the cupboard: Rio Mare, Western Family Solid Yellowfin Tuna in Olive Oil, Cloverleaf Flaked Light Tuna in Vegetable Broth and Oil?

I like to keep my favourite canned salmon and tuna ready in the cupboard, not just for emergencies but as delicious staples. But after all that’s known about omega 3 and the benefits of the Mediterranean diet, why is dry, hard, water-packed tuna held up as the gold standard? I’ve converted many with a simple salad or tuna sandwich made with canned tuna from Italy: Rio Mare. Juicy, rosy, packed in olive oil, all it needs is a squeeze of lemon, minced onions or celery. If it needs a little mayo for old times’ sake, about a teaspoon or so will do the trick.

Rio Mare, $3.33 (if you buy three tins) for 160g at Choffi’s Meat Market (604-291-9373) and $5.99 (for one tin) at Whole Foods; Western Family Solid Yellowfin Tuna in Olive Oil,  $1.79 for 85g at Save-on Foods; Cloverleaf Flaked Light Tuna in Vegetable Broth and Soya Oil $2.59  for 170g at Safeway. (All tuna is yellowfin.)

What To Do With Tinned Tuna: French Flare In Minutes

So the south of France is a bit of a hike, but you’re craving a little of the love—make salade niçoise with that olive-oil-enriched tuna. On a platter around the tuna, arrange a few cherry tomatoes, steamed potatoes, hard-boiled eggs (even better, quail eggs) and crispy blanched green beans or asparagus. Nothing beats down the blues like a citrusy vinaigrette: juice of 2 lemons, a tablespoon of Dijon mustard, a teaspoon of sugar, salt and pepper whisked together. Add olive oil to taste or a lighter oil with some olive oil, if you like to keep the flavour bright. And do taste. For a creamy dressing, add a couple tablespoons of that mayonnaise we love. Garnish with capers and put on Piaf.

Photo: C. Phaisalakani